It has been over four months since my last post appeared on my blog. Been out of the writing for a while, not out of the wines. In contrary, I have been busier than ever, tasting, drinking, reading but above all working hard, really hard. I now have the honourable position to sell the fabulous wines of Bibendum Wine Co. on the Perth market, a huge task regarding the sheer size of the portfolio and the limits of one single person… However, it’s a pleasure to work with wines from producers like Larmandier Bernier, Huet SA, Georges Vernay, Tardieu Laurent and Rene Barbier to name just a few.
Although I was familiar with some of the producers, new windows have opened for me and new paths had to be explored. This means spending more money on drinking wines from my own stable and less resources for others. Besides that, I have decided to make a serious effort to start a modest private cellar. Again, this means less resources for every day upmarket drinking while stashing away the real treasures for later. So the question is where to go with this blog? Although I have never made an effort to offer a comprehensive source for imported wines, I always wanted to inform my readers about different, exciting and above all good wines. I’m dedicated – resources allowing – to continue doing this, however, at a much lower publication rate. In the meantime I will keep you informed on producers, regions and everything vinous worth knowing. Salute!
In the category entry-level French Chardonnay, this is another revisit to a wine which quality amazed me last vintage. Again this unoaked Chardonnay shows the usual concoction of lemon, pear, mint and floral aromas recurring on a medium-bodied palate where softly textured fruit is balanced with minerally acid. However, where the 2005 cashed in on the vintage with clear focus, concentration and depth, I would label this edition as solid but less exciting. 87 points
I was pleased to find the 2006 edition of this wine at my local liquor shop the other day, as I remember the one from the stellar 2005 vintage as an absolute cracker. After reading the raving (95 points!) review by
Vermentino is widely planted in the central part of the Mediterranean, reaching its apogee in the Vermentino di Gallura DOCG of Sardinia. However, on both Corsica and the French and Italian mainland some excellent examples are made, as this wine from the Ligurian DOC of Colli di Luni. Entirely made from organically grown grapes, philosopher turned winemaker Andrea Kihlgren has crafted a wonderfully pure Vermentino. Aromas of white flowers, rosemary, straw, grapefruit and apple introduce the flavours to follow on the palate. Bone-dry, with a lovely chalky mouthfeel, this wine shows a perfect balance between expressive herbaceous fruit and a somewhat restraining core of minerality. Try it with a fresh seafood linguine. Yum!
The prolonged period of hot weather here in Perth screams out for fresh summer whites, like this lovely Verdejo. From an area where great fluctuations between day and night temperatures help the grapes to retain their acidity, it offers tons of fruit and vibrancy. And with the further addition of proper viticultural practices, modern wine making and a healthy level of ambition, the Benito brothers are bringing this variety to the next level. Aromas of citrus peel, ripe melon, white flowers and minty herbaceousness on the nose, the wine has a succulent, fruit driven palate balanced with crisp and minerally acid. Nice labelling and screwtop closure finish the deal. 88 points
The revival of Priorat is repeatedly embodied in wineries as Cellers Fuentes: founded in the ’90s, backed by foreign capital, lead by the passion of a young winemaker playing around with mouthwatering old-vine material. This approach has clearly paid off, with the Gran Clos and Finca El Puig having conquered their place between some of the region’s greatest wines as L’Ermita and Clos Mogador. The 2002 El Puig is a blend of 45% Garnacha, 23% Cariñena, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 2% Syrah, aged between 12 and 16 months in predominantly French oak. Deep crimson in the glass the nose unveils its origins straight away, with an amalgam of fragrant berry fruit, herbs, liquorice and hints of leafs and leather, following through to a full-bodied palate with ripe fruit, some earthiness and ample minerality adding freshness and balance. This wine actually showed much better the day after opening, proving the point that most big and bold Priorats deserve serious decanting. 90 points
The young appellation of Minervois La Livinière is considered to produce some of Languedoc’s best wines. From its leading producer comes La Féline, a deep crimson coloured blend of 75% Syrah and 25% Grenache. Where the wines from the Southern Rhône already offer the distinctive characters of garrigue and Herbes de Provence, to this one the ripeness and fulness of sun-drenched grapes is added, however, balancing acidity is always in sight due to the relatively high altitude of the AOC’s vineyards. On the nose aromas of cherry, blackberry, plum, herbs, pepper and exotic spice seem to grow more complex with some time in the glass, perfectly balancing the fragrance of primary fruit with spicy-savoury notes. The palate is smooth, round, ripe and powerful with grippy tannins building towards the finish. Its austerity suggests it can easily be cellared for 5 years or more. This is actually a quite fantastic wine at this price. 90 points
Recent Comments