The DOC of Etna is one of Italy’s most exciting in terms of native offerings. Here, on the slopes of this active volcano, Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio can produce stunning red wines of ethereal fragrance and serious structure, its characters somehow reminiscent of Pinot Noir. There is no doubt that the recognition for the wines from this DOC can mainly be attributed to its reds, however, the whites should definitely not be overlooked as shown by this gem from Benanti. Entirely made from 80 year-old, low-yielding Carricante vines, this is the perfect example how the wet, humid and cool conditions on the Etna help to retain nervy, fresh acidity. Knowing the winemaking is pretty basic, including gentle pressing, temperature controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks, and several months of maturing before bottling, the power of fruit shown in this wine is even more amazing. Light gold in the glass, the nose runs through intense aromas of flowers, apple, pear, lemon, orange peel and other citrus fruit, all recurring on a palate where succulent texture, almost salty acidity and concentrated fruit are impeccable balanced towards a slightly bitter-spicy finish. This is one of the most impressive Italian whites I’ve had recently.
Source: Enoteca Sileno/The Grocer Price: $75 Drink: Now-2012
In the category entry-level French Chardonnay, this is another revisit to a wine which quality amazed me last vintage. Again this unoaked Chardonnay shows the usual concoction of lemon, pear, mint and floral aromas recurring on a medium-bodied palate where softly textured fruit is balanced with minerally acid. However, where the 2005 cashed in on the vintage with clear focus, concentration and depth, I would label this edition as solid but less exciting. 87 points
I was pleased to find the 2006 edition of this wine at my local liquor shop the other day, as I remember the one from the stellar 2005 vintage as an absolute cracker. After reading the raving (95 points!) review by 
Vermentino is widely planted in the central part of the Mediterranean, reaching its apogee in the Vermentino di Gallura DOCG of Sardinia. However, on both Corsica and the French and Italian mainland some excellent examples are made, as this wine from the Ligurian DOC of Colli di Luni. Entirely made from organically grown grapes, philosopher turned winemaker Andrea Kihlgren has crafted a wonderfully pure Vermentino. Aromas of white flowers, rosemary, straw, grapefruit and apple introduce the flavours to follow on the palate. Bone-dry, with a lovely chalky mouthfeel, this wine shows a perfect balance between expressive herbaceous fruit and a somewhat restraining core of minerality. Try it with a fresh seafood linguine. Yum!
The prolonged period of hot weather here in Perth screams out for fresh summer whites, like this lovely Verdejo. From an area where great fluctuations between day and night temperatures help the grapes to retain their acidity, it offers tons of fruit and vibrancy. And with the further addition of proper viticultural practices, modern wine making and a healthy level of ambition, the Benito brothers are bringing this variety to the next level. Aromas of citrus peel, ripe melon, white flowers and minty herbaceousness on the nose, the wine has a succulent, fruit driven palate balanced with crisp and minerally acid. Nice labelling and screwtop closure finish the deal. 88 points
The revival of Priorat is repeatedly embodied in wineries as Cellers Fuentes: founded in the ’90s, backed by foreign capital, lead by the passion of a young winemaker playing around with mouthwatering old-vine material. This approach has clearly paid off, with the Gran Clos and Finca El Puig having conquered their place between some of the region’s greatest wines as L’Ermita and Clos Mogador. The 2002 El Puig is a blend of 45% Garnacha, 23% Cariñena, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 2% Syrah, aged between 12 and 16 months in predominantly French oak. Deep crimson in the glass the nose unveils its origins straight away, with an amalgam of fragrant berry fruit, herbs, liquorice and hints of leafs and leather, following through to a full-bodied palate with ripe fruit, some earthiness and ample minerality adding freshness and balance. This wine actually showed much better the day after opening, proving the point that most big and bold Priorats deserve serious decanting. 90 points
The young appellation of Minervois La Livinière is considered to produce some of Languedoc’s best wines. From its leading producer comes La Féline, a deep crimson coloured blend of 75% Syrah and 25% Grenache. Where the wines from the Southern Rhône already offer the distinctive characters of garrigue and Herbes de Provence, to this one the ripeness and fulness of sun-drenched grapes is added, however, balancing acidity is always in sight due to the relatively high altitude of the AOC’s vineyards. On the nose aromas of cherry, blackberry, plum, herbs, pepper and exotic spice seem to grow more complex with some time in the glass, perfectly balancing the fragrance of primary fruit with spicy-savoury notes. The palate is smooth, round, ripe and powerful with grippy tannins building towards the finish. Its austerity suggests it can easily be cellared for 5 years or more. This is actually a quite fantastic wine at this price. 90 points
The story of Domaine Yann Chave is similar to that of many wineries in this appellation: an ambitious young son joins his father in the family business, stops selling grapes to the local cooperation in Tain while improving viticultural practices by using organic standards and drastically cutting back yields. The new approach has clearly paid off, resulting in impressive wines from both Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage and making this domaine one of the northern Rhône’s fastest rising stars. Chave’s standard Crozes-Hermitage is all about maximum expression of fruit with basically no oak used. Fragrant and intense aromes of violets, blackberries and spices follow through to a medium-bodied palate with a round and supple mouthfeel, grainy tannins, bags of ripe fruit and very well balanced acidity. The peppery finish gives this wine plenty of regional personality. 89 points
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