Archive for September 2007

Marc Brédif Vouvray 1988

September 30, 2007

img_3699.jpgThis is Brédifs first Grande Année wine I have seen since the selling out of the 1986 vintage. The tasting notes of both vintages are practically exchangeable: a mix of primary and developed fruit characters such as stewed apple, pear and quince on the nose and an edgy balance between sweetness and acid on the palate as hallmark for both wines. This wine appears fresher compared to the 1986 at the same stage, although it is difficult to tell whether this is due to vintage or bottle variation. At a price of $52 it is still a bargain – at Langton’s the 1986 has been sold for $95 this year – and if you like this wine I would snap up some bottles as it sells out increasingly fast. 91 points.

Source: Negociants Australia  Price: $52  Drink: Now-2015+

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Jean-Luc Mader Gewürztraminer 2004

September 29, 2007

img_3687.jpgAt present it seems that Alsace wines are inextricably bound up with the issue of sweetness. There is no doubt that global warming has led to a series of vintages producing physiological ripe grapes with high sugar levels. After fermentation a lot of wines will keep some residual sugar although the total amount will depend on the potential alcohol level and not to forget the intended style of the winemaker. Much heard criticism is that quite some producers in Alsace deliberately chase sweeter styles of wines that would suit the Goûte américaine. True or not, in my opinion it’s more important that sweetness is countered by fresh acidity. Whether you then still perceive a wine as sweet or not is a subjective matter of personal taste and preference. This Gewürztraminer from Jean-Luc Mader shows an exuberant nose of rose petal, musk, pear and exotic fruit. Although there is no doubt that the wine contains residual sugar, the sweetness is never out of balance with the crisp acid on the palate that runs through tropical fruit, honeysuckle and asian spices. Open-hearted varietal, vinous and succulent, this wine is a perfect example of good and over-delivering entry-level Alsatian Gewürztraminer. 90 points.

Source: Vintage & Vine/Liquid Library  Price: $29  Drink: Now-2009

Web: www.vins-mader.com

Great Getaways #2

September 28, 2007

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After three weeks of travelling through amazing country with my wife and daughter I feel a little bit lost at home. I’m hardly able to grasp the fact that the places we have visited are actually in the same country and state where I’m living. The land of the Lightning Dreaming where Namarrgon reigns, the domes of Purnululu, the ancestral Wandjina spirits, they all form the dramatic background of a land that is rich in a wonderful aboriginal culture, visual stunning landscapes and abundant wildlife. And in some places wine is being made too…

Great Getaways #1

September 25, 2007

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When I started work in the wine-business my hobby became my job. And for every job goes that you sometimes need to get away from it all. Here in Australia it’s not that difficult with the great outdoors within arm’s reach. About 6 weeks ago we decided to go to Fitzgerald National Park to watch the Southern Right wales that can be seen in the waters of the Australian southern coast from autumn to spring. In and around the shallow and protected Point Ann mothers nurse their calves and sometimes give an energetic performance that includes the breaching we were so lucky to witness. Such a sight simply makes me completely forget about wine.