Archive for April 2008

Pewsey Vale The Contours Riesling 2002

April 25, 2008

To say that I turned to The Contours after I run out of Grossets would unjustly declassify this Riesling which I regard as one of the country’s best. What I like about Eden Valley Rieslings in general is that they are more approachable when young than their Clare Valley cousins. That doesn’t neccesarily mean that top wines from outstanding vintages don’t age well, as shown by The Contours. The best part is that you can’t be tempted to drink this wine too young as the 2002 is only released about half a year ago. The depth and concentration of aromas and flavours in this yellow golden wine is superb, showing crisp lime and citrus complemented by hints of flowers, spice and toast following through on a palate with subtle, delicate fruit flavours balanced by powerful mineral acidity. This wine will last at least another 10 years and at about $30 dollars I wouldn’t hesitate to put a case in your cellar. 94 points

Source: Samuel Smith & Son  Price: $30  Drink: Now-2015+

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Grosset Watervale Riesling 2002

April 25, 2008

I love Rieslings, generally the older the better. Top vintages from good producers like Grosset are always a treat. The one’s from 2002 still show so much slatey acidity that I’m sure they have another decade ahead. They taste so good after 3 to 4 years though that I’m afraid this was my last bottle. Bright gold in the glass the wine offers everything you want from an aged Riesling. Intense aromas of lime, citrus and apple still dominate the nose with sublte spice, floral, toasty and honeyed tones adding complexity and depth. The palate is succulent and mellow yet wonderfully balanced by vibrant acid that runs through the wine as a fresh mountain stream. So good that I couldn’t wait. 94 points.

Source: Fine Wine Wholesalers  Price: $37  Drink: Now-2015

Winedome goes Italia

April 25, 2008

 

I love Italian wines. In a world where food and wine is increasingly standardised, Italy still offers a lot of unique variety, regionality and above all quality. Viva Carlo Petrini! I’m therefore more than happy to start work for The Grocer, WA distributor for Enoteca Sileno’s wines and food. Completely responsible for the wines, it’s a sheer pleasure to work with names as Braida, Ceretto, Produttori del Barbaresco, Renato Ratti, Castello di Ama, Mastrojanni, Tedeschi, Zaccagnini, Hofstätter, Benanti and many more. If you wonder why I’m not posting regular at the moment the answer is that I have to taste my way through the portfolio, not a bad job! To maintain integrity and objectivity you won’t find scores of Enoteca’s/The Grocer’s wines on Winedome. If you’re interested in them, simply go to The Grocer’s or Enoteca’s website and read more.

www.thegrocer.com.au or www.enoteca.com.au

Castle Rock Estate Riesling

April 23, 2008

I haven’t been posting regularly lately, finishing one job, starting a new challenge on Monday and a well-deserved break inbetween. When away with the family I normally avoid wineries and cellar doors but when in the Porongurups it would be a shame to miss Castle Rock. With the Stirling Ranges visible on clear days it forms one of the most dramatic backdrops in WA while the reversed view from the 1095m-high Bluff Knoll is equally stunning. But it’s not primarely the natural surroundings that make made me pay a visit to the warm and hospitable – even in the midst of vintage – Diletti’s. For me their wonderful Rieslings are the true reason behind it all and I just had to see and feel the place where one of my favourite drinks is born year after year. 

My first introduction to these tightly structured and intensily concentrated wines was at a vertical tasting a couple of years ago. A backbone of impeccable balanced acid proved to be the key to their longevity with the most wines showing their best after several years in the bottle, having shed off their initial shyness. This turned out to be the same at this visit to the cellar door where the still tight, steely, racy and relatively austere 2007 Riesling contrasted sharply with the award-winning approachable and oh so gorgeous 2003. At respectively $20 and $28 you can readily drink – or cellar – one of Australia’s best.

Source: Castle Rock Estate/Swanbourne Cellars  Drink: Now-2020

Mesh Riesling 2007

April 18, 2008

Clare meets Eden Valley in this joint-venture between Jeffrey Grosset and Robert Hill Smith. Although this label hasn’t got the same pedigree as its contributors own wines, it certainly is one of Australia’s Rieslings with high potential, clearly demonstrated in vintages as 2002 and 2005. Under the more challenging circumstances of last year it proves to have class indeed although I always expect that little bit extra from this wine. For Riesling that means purity, precision, line and lenght. The intensity of lemon and lime in this pale straw wine dominates nose and palate, complemented by hints of riper varietal characters as candied orange, flowers and spice. Succulent, open and textural it seems to concentrate its virtues predominantly on the front and the middle of the palate leaving me with the impression that great lenght and persistance are only to be found in those exceptional vintages from the past. So don’t keep this one in the cellar too long but drink it while it’s young and fresh. 90 points

Source: Negociants Australia  Price: $30  Drink: Now-2010