Archive for the ‘Chablis’ category

Joseph Drouhin Chablis 2006

January 28, 2009

img_5231In the category entry-level French Chardonnay, this is another revisit to a wine which quality amazed me last vintage. Again this unoaked Chardonnay shows the usual concoction of lemon, pear, mint and floral aromas recurring on a medium-bodied palate where softly textured fruit is balanced with minerally acid. However, where the 2005 cashed in on the vintage with clear focus, concentration and depth, I would label this edition as solid but less exciting. 87 points

Source: Fine Wine Partners  Price: $45  Drink: Now-2010

Other vintages: 2005



La Chablisienne Chablis 2006

July 11, 2008

About two weeks ago Australian Financial Review’s Tim White wrote an interesting article on the unprecedented wide choice of fine European wines in Australia. Apart from importers like Enoteca Sileno, Vintage & Vine, CellarHand and The Spanish Acquisition, praised for keeping up stock levels of many independent bottle shops and top restaurants with exciting wine styles, a fair bit of attention went out to the wine buyers at Coles. Owning outlets as Liquorland and Vintage Cellars, our biggest wine retailer has jumped onto the bandwagon with imports at the cheaper end of the market in order to expose customers to new styles and varieties. Although not all the offerings are of the same quality, some nice ones can be found at attractive prices. I know this subject throws around some controversy but one can’t deny democracy has landed in the world of wine.

The always reliable wines from Chablis co-op La Chablisienne are well represented on the shelves of my local Vintage Cellars. The straw yellow 2006 Chablis unveils its regional identity straight away with aromas of lemon, apple and white flowers while gentle acid flows underneath the smooth and textural palate. This is not the most concentrated and persistent Chablis, but for a village wine selling at twenty dollars its all forgiven. 87 points

Source: James Busby Fine Wines/Vintage Cellars  Price: $20  Drink: Now


Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis Vaillon 2006

November 22, 2007

img_3778.jpgFather and son Moreau are producing stunning wines since taking back control over their vineyards in 2002 and with reason the quality of their wines is compared with the ones from the Fèvre, Raveneau and Dauvissat triumvirate. An impressive range of wines from the Grand Crus Blancots, Les Clos, Clos des Hospices, Valmur and Vaudésir is complemented by an exceptional Chablis from the 1er Cru Vaillons along with a fantastic value generic Chablis. The Vaillon 1er Cru 2005 has been lauded in the international press so I was exited to try the latest edition last night. Sourced from old vines from the climats Châtains, Epinottes and Vaillon the grapes produced a crisp, lively and appetising wine with white flowers, pear, apple, nutty and spicy aromas leading to an intensily concentrated palate where fruit, natural acidity, discreet oak and lees influenced texture play together harmonieusly toward a vibrant and persistant finish. A wonderful wine that’s drinking delicious now or could be cellared for the medium term. 91 points.

Source: Vintage & Vine/Liquid Library  Price: $65  Drink: Now-2012


Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis 2005

October 7, 2007

img_3659.jpgThere has never been a better time to discover Chablis now that there are so many good wines available from the stellar 2005 vintage. The on quality orientated domaines like Christian Moreau Père et Fils just seem to achieve another dimension in their wines. The handpicked and sorted grapes are fermented in stainless steel vats and kept on their lees for 10 months. This regime results in a wine that expresses itself rather diplomatic with grapefruit, nectarine and white flowers on the nose. The palate is fleshy and buttery yet stony and mineral with apple and citrus leading to a long and extra-dry finish. This is textbook Chablis that could easily be mistaken for a Premier Cru. 90 points.

Source: Vintage & Vine/Liquid Library  Price: $48  Drink: Now-2010


Denis Pommier Chablis 2005

June 18, 2007

img_3025.jpgDenis and Isabelle Pommier’s domaine is based in the tiny village of Poinchy, a few kilometres west of Chablis, and consists of small holdings in different Chablis appellations including the Premier Crus Fourchaume, Côte de Léchet and Beauroy. Three hectares of 25 year old vines supply the grapes for the basic Chablis which is completely vinified in stainless steel tanks. After resting on lees for 6 months the wine undergoes another year of bottle ageing to add more complexity. The result is a wine with an open, high-toned nose with fresh citrus, pear and floral tones. The palate is round, rich and textural giving way to a crunchy mineral acidity that rolls around the mouth and lingers on the finish. This is a perfectly balanced wine with depth and complexity that shows how good generic Chablis really can be. 90 points.

Source: Vintage & Vine/Liquid Library  Price: $45  Drink: Now-2010


William Fevre Petit Chablis 2005

May 22, 2007

img_2920.jpgFor a long time the different appellations of Chablis have been classified along geological lines. Chablis – including the Grand- and Premier Crus – was restricted to vineyards on Kimmeridgian marl while vineyards on the harder Portlandian limestone soils could only be classed for Petit Chablis. Several extensions of the classifications boundaries according to site and exposition instead of geological origins have resulted in the upgrade from Petit Chablis to Chablis and the appearance of new Premier Crus, leading to an ongoing debate on the definition of true Chablis. There is no doubt that more factors than soil alone are involved in the quality of the wines as there is no doubt about the differences in quality between the Chablis appellations. In respect to this Petit Chablis sits at the bottom of the hierarchy but because of its friendlier price it offers a good introduction to this wine-style for many people. The Fèvre Petit Chablis forms no exception on this rule. The nose is very fresh with dominant citrus and floral aromas. Zesty acidity displays the same freshness on the palate and a soft and buttery mouthfeel keeps it all in balance. Overall the wine lacks the real intensity and length to make it more than a pleasant drink but it’s definitely not bad for a Petit Chablis. 85 points.

Source: Negociants Australia  Price: $30 Drink: Now


William Fevre Chablis Fourchaume 2004

May 21, 2007

img_2916.jpgChardonnay is a versatile grape-variety that comes in different guises. It can be moulded very easily by for example the use of oak, lees stirring and malolactic fermentation and is highly adaptable to a wide range of climates and soils, all contributing to an enormous array of different wines. Oaked and buttery Chardonnays remain the benchmark in Australia but the more elegant ‘cool-climate’ examples are getting increasingly popular and are often referred to as ‘Chablis-like’. It is true that Chablis is more racy and mineraly than the fuller and more generous styles of the Côte d’Or. In reality it’s not that simple. Raciness, acidity and crispness alone would make mean wines, so good Chablis also needs enough ripe fruit to get the right balance. It is this precious equilibrium that makes good Chablis unique and so hard to imitate. The 2004 Fourchaume from William Fèvre is a perfect example of this style. Its delicate nose displays white flowers, lively fruit characters and a touch of vanilla. It is the palate that reveals the true Chablis though with zesty and mineral acidity running underneath a broad, fleshy and buttery surface. The intensity and concentration of the fruit combined with a finish that seems to go on forever make this wine good value white Burgundy compared with its Côte d’Or counterparts. 90 points.

Source: Negociants Australia  Price: $79  Drink: Now-2010