Archive for the ‘Tuscany’ category

Ca’Marcanda Promis 2004

July 8, 2008

The coastal Bolgheri is one of Italy’s youngest DOC’s. Home to the renowned Ornellaia and Sassicaia, it’s a fast evolving region too with numerous producers following the same path as the Antinori’s. This is understandable regarding the high prices those Super Tuscans have been fetching since the mid-90’s, the possibility of making cutting edge wines out of popular international varieties and the abundance of sunshine ensuring flavours and tannins to ripen fully and relatively easy. Angelo Gaja’s Ca’Marcanda is one of the new kids on the block, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot as main varieties planted in its vineyards. But as with most of its Piedmontese cousins the wines are voluntarily made as IGT’s, enabling cross-regional blending and the use of other varieties than permitted by the DOC regulations. The entry-level Promis fits exactly in this mould with 55% Merlot, 35% Shiraz – both from the Bolgheri estate – and 10% Sangiovese from Montalcino. This deep purple wine shows an attractive nose with loads of ripe red berries and seductive vanillan oak. Soft grainy tannins, generous fruit and balanced acid on a medium weight palate testify of skillful winemaking. Unfortunatly the absence of a defined sense of place makes this wine nothing really more than a well made, easy drinking Italian wine. 88 points.

 Source: Negociants Austrialia  Price: $50  Drink: Now-2010

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Poggerino Chianti Classico 2004

December 17, 2007

img_3765.jpgFrom the central part of the DOCG zone around the town Radda in Chianti comes this wine from Fattoria Poggerino. The estate’s south-facing Galestro-rich vineyards are classic ingredients for great Sangiovese with the quality-minded philosophy of owners Piero and Benedetta Lanza underpinned by meticulous vineyard practices including hand pruning and green harvesting. The approach in the winery stands midway between modern and traditional with Allier barriques used for the ageing of monovarietal Chianti Classico. The nose of this ruby-red wine clearly bears the mark of the oak with aromas of dark cherry and blackberries wrapped by vanilla, tobacco, spice and tar while the assertive palate shows fairly broad shoulders with compact fruit and grippy tannins balanced by cleansing acid at a persistant finish. This is a straightforward Chianti that combines power with elegance. 89 points

Source: Trembath & Taylor/Dave Mullen  Price: $48  Drink: Now-2015

Web: www.poggerino.com

Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico 2004

December 13, 2007

img_3777.jpgChianti Classico is one of the superior Denominaziones that goes from strength to strength. The first bounderies of the region have been created as early as 1716, but only since the region started to define its own rules in 1996 this has resulted in an increase of quality. The Uvaggio has been cleared of all white grape varieties such as Trebbiano while more emphasis is placed on Sangiovese, although it is still allowed to blend up to 20% of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Colorino or Canaiolo in the wine. Clonal selection, research on viticultural practices, better vinification and the notion of terroir have given producers a better insight into the mechanisms of Sangiovese leading to more monovarietal wines with serious complexity and cellaring potential. In combination with the right climatic conditions as in 2004 this results in fantastic wines as this Chianti Classico from Fattoria di Felsina demonstrates. Deep ruby-red in colour it unveils a complex nose of cherry, fennel, aniseed, tobacco, dried herbs and a touch of vanilla. The same characters follow through on a perfectly balanced palate with juicy berry fruit, silky tannins, ample acidity and a delicate finish. This classy Chianti will fill out further over the next 5 years. 91 points

Source: Trembath & Taylor/Dave Mullen  Price: $59  Drink: Now-2012

Web: www.felsina.it