Archive for the ‘Toro’ category

Telmo Rodriguez Dehesa Gago 2005

July 4, 2007

One of the most fascinating aspects of Tempranillo is the adaptibility to the environment it’s grown in. Because this variety has been cultivated in Spain for a long time on innumerable different sites in various regions, no less than 552 clones have developed. Each region claims to have its own unique clone of Tempranillo, all given local names and all supposed to be different. Particularly in Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Toro a lot of research has been done on the differences between clones within and between these regions. Researchers of the Instituto Technológico Agrario de Castilla y León in Valladolid have carried out an interesting comparison trial with certified clones of Tinta del País, Tinta de Toro and Riojo clones that were selected in their area of origin. The vines were planted on the same plot and the same growing techniques were applied. The trial showed that the Tinta de Toro and Tinta del País clones maintain a close genetic similarity to clones from any of the regions. The genetic differences between clones from the same region were greater although the Rioja clones were closer to themselves. With the characteristics of the grapes at harvest being all similar this study clearly showed that Tempranillo vines adapt very well to their circumstances. It therefore remains the question if different Tempranillo clones attribute to differences in the tast of wines at all, even more so when the significant variation of climate, soils and winemaking traditions in Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Toro are taken into consideration. The climate in the latter is so warm that excessive alcohol levels are easily reached while the relatively short growing season adds rustic tannins. Many bodegas sooth their wines by a lot of extraction and oak with blockbuster wines as a result. Although there is no oak involved in the Dehesa Gago fermentation at 28 degrees Celcius and skin contact for 10 days ensure the wine has a lot of  punch. Inky red in the glass the wine released earthy, leathery, mocca and chocolate aromas and only after about half an hour after decanting the wine opened up and showed dark red fruit and floral tones. The palate is chunky and meaty with smooth tannins and enough acid to keep it clean and fresh. With such an  intense and concentrated palate this rather ‘simple’ joven really over-delivers. 88 points.

Source: The Spanish Aquisition  Price: $27  Drink: Now-2008